The Heart of Indian Culture and Heritage Showcased in Dior’s A/W’23 Show

“I personally wanted to celebrate and showcase the incredible knowledge India offers to the international world of fashion in the field of embroidery, the mastery of the artisans who continue to work on this craft,” says Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s Creative Director, “and the commitment of Chanakya’s founders to preserving India’s history and culture, portrayed by each embroidery technique.”

When it comes to creating a fashion show for a luxury brand, the director must go down a path of exploration. From small details on a silhouette to music choice, the collection must have a clear vision.

Dior’s A/W’23 collection was an exploration of Indian culture. “For me to show India means also to celebrate the heritage of India in embroidery and how important [it is"] in the fashion world,” Chiuri tells Masala.


Let’s break down Dior’s A/W’23 show.


set design

With every detail, pattern, and print, the creative direction of the show highlighted the rich Indian culture. The 14-meter tall installation welcomed guests to the show at the Gateway of India in Mumbai. The tapestry-like installation was inspired by Indian culture.

The fabric and embroidery work symbolizes ceremonial entrances in India. The symbols on the installation represent good fortune and success in Indian culture. The overall piece included 25 techniques of craftmanship such as mirror work, phulkari, french knotting, and Kantha.

After 35,000 hours, many workers, and months later, Mumbai was lit up on Thursday, March 30, 2023.


The collaboration

This was a very monumental moment in Indian history, as Dior is the first luxury brand to hold their fashion show in the country. Maria Grazia Chiuri also teamed up with Mumbai’s non-profit Chanakya School of Craft to bring this show to life. Dior’s display of Indian culture and tradition calls for celebration.

The collection will be available at retail locations in April, and each garment includes a representation of Indian craftsmanship and embroidery. Dior also immersed itself in the beautiful patterns and prints which are significant to Indian heritage

The Chanakya School of Craft, co-founded by Karishma Swali is the first non-profit to dedicate itself to innovative craft and global textiles. Karishma’s mission is to celebrate women that learn these crafts.

The Chanakya School of Craft also devotes itself to teaching women through ambition and skill. This atelier and school for women artisans create opportunities for them to be in the world of art and design.

They learn everything from embroidery, patchwork, threadwork, sequin work, beading, cutdana, raffia, and badla. From tapestries to draped garments, these women were able to contribute to Dior’s collection this year.

Above are some behind scenes of the dedication designers put into hand-making these garments for Dior. Each thread was hand-created for Dior’s A/W’23 collection.

With this collection, Dior takes a step forward by putting India and allowing the world an inside look at its beautiful culture. The luxury house invited international artists and celebrities, customers, buyers, and industry professionals to honor Indian culture through its designs.

The representation of Indian models also added inclusivity to the show, making it a true display of hte heart and heritage of this rich culture.


The collection

The collection presented everything from floral prints to sequins and even followed traditional Indian silhouette’s. The garments consisted of sari-like skirts, printed pants, silky dresses, and sequined patchwork pieces. The color palette was vibrant, being dominated by a rich, royal purple and forest green.

By representing the artisanal craftsmanship of Indian women, the luxury brand celebrated Indian culture exceptionally right in the city of Mumbai. Dior thanked the 99 women who walked down the runway and the city of Mumbai for allowing their collection to walk at the Gateway of India. This moment will go down in Indian history forever.

What do you think of the show? Leave a comment below.