Marc by Sofia: A Review — The Lexington Line

When I heard that Sofia Coppola was creating and directing a documentary revolving around designer Marc Jacobs, I was sat immediately. It’s almost like asking a chef to cook their signature dish; it just makes sense.

With Coppola’s decades of experience directing beautifully feminine movies and Marc Jacobs’ lasting influence on fashion, the pairing felt completely natural. Especially considering the two have been friends for years and are deeply rooted in each other’s creative worlds. Both artists have a similar desire to capture beauty.

I forced my most fashion-loving friends to buy tickets, and we watched the documentary, Marc by Sofia, on a Tuesday night. Despite the theatre being slightly hollow, the documentary was not. It was an hour and a half of fashion, storytelling, color, and music. Exactly what you would expect if you know Jacob’s designs. Or Coppola’s directing. It quite beautifully displayed Jacob’s path to becoming the designer he is now, and his inspiration along the way.

The main focus, though, is Jacob’s preparation for his NYFW Spring 2024 show, a completely unconventional runway that challenged ideas of size and texture.

The editing of the documentary guided this narrative in a funky manner, swinging from one-on-one interviews—which felt incredibly personal and gentle, a friend talking to a friend—to chaotic montages of early designs and stress before runway shows. These montages were filled with digital camera pictures, neon pops of color, and perfectly fitting music, from The Strokes and Sonic Youth to Björk. It truly encapsulated the feeling of developing a creative career in the late 90’s, New York City.

The interviews were not only personal because of Coppola and Jacob’s longtime friendship, but also due to the genuine and casual nature of them. Jacobs is in his natural habitat, his home, wearing a bathrobe and hitting his vape as he speaks. The two laugh together or remind one another of details of their past; it feels like sitting with your cool aunt and uncle as they reflect on the past.

Though the interviews feel casual, the things they speak of do not, especially when it comes to fashion. Coppola manages to catch Jacob’s passion incredibly well, and his longtime dedication and love for design.

Coppola uses real media that has inspired Jacob’s work to illustrate these feelings. For example, a clip from the 1969 film adaptation “Sweet Charity,” which Jacob’s used as inspiration for his designs. I found these moments the most special; we could see how ideas touched Jacob's mind, as well as the ways they reflected in his designs.

Now, if you’re looking for an action-packed story, this is not the documentary for you. It’s less of a historical report and more of a visual embodiment of Marc Jacobs and his creations. But, from two artists who put such time and dedication into their personal work, why shouldn't they get to make something simple and fun together?

I also began to understand more as I watched that this was truly the intention. To reflect on the artistry that both Coppola and Jacobs see in each other, excitingly and creatively.

A scene I remember specifically is Jacobs reflecting on his attitude before shows, claiming that he can get a little “mean” or overwhelmed as showtime comes closer. He talks about how fashion shows often tend to disregard time and begin fashionably late. He stated how much he hates this idea and how, in the last seconds, as everything comes together, all he wants to do is show the world. As soon as the clock strikes, he wants his models on the runway. The scene displayed him pacing around models beautifully dressed up in giant wigs and lashes, yelling the time as each minute passed. The people around him tell him not to stress and that the models are on their way, but he demands them out.

Although this may seem aggressive, I loved this scene so deeply. It reflected Jacob's passion so directly. He didn't care to come off as nonchalant; he didn't want to be fashionably late. He was there, the models were there, everything was ready, and he wanted to display that very moment. The models enter the stage one by one, to a giant dining room table and oversized chairs. The unconventionally sized set matches the unconventional manner of the entire line. And the project is finished. It was a moment of synergy and reflection of hard work. It reminded me why I joined the very same industry. And why I love it so much.

Essentially, that is the purpose of the documentary. It displays people who love their art, making art about that love. It ended up being exactly what I had expected, like asking a chef to cook their signature dish and watching them get it exactly right. It isn't trying to be anything more than what it is, and to me, that’s what made it so compelling. I could see someone without a love for fashion finding it somewhat boring, but if you have any understanding of design or the industry surrounding it, this is quite an exciting documentary.

Rather than a dramatic retelling, it becomes something much more real and personal. It not only reflects the talent Jacobs has had since his young days at Parsons School of Design, but it also serves as a reflection of two artists who understand each other, finding joy in the act of creating together.

What stuck with me most was the reminder of why I am drawn to creative spaces in the first place, not just for the final product, but for the passion, the chaos, and the love that goes into it. Most importantly, the people you meet along the way.

Have you watched “Mark by Sofia” yet? Let us know in the comments.